How To Find The Perfect Piece of Estate, Antique or Vintage Inspired Jewelry 

Hello friends and welcome to our first Aristogram! We love sharing our passion and knowledge of jewelry.  I am part of a family business and team who has been curating fine jewelry for more than thirty five years.  We are proud to introduce our specialty line of fine jewelry. 

I can always tell when someone is staring at my jewelry.  I feel their gaze lingering on my hand or neck.  I know that a fellow jewelry enthusiast is admiring my latest treasure.  It happens all the time.  Whether running errands or sipping champagne at a party and trying my best to make small talk, eventually the passionate jewelry conversation begins.  Excited by the sparkle and intrigued by the uniqueness, the questions are rapidly fired;  “What is it?”  “How many carats?”  “Is it real?”  “Is this old or meant to look old?”  When I’m sensing they want to see it up close, I sometimes indulge them by taking off a ring for them to try.  They hold up their hand up to get a good look in the light, admiring and imagining the journey of the piece: “Who do you think owned this?”, “If this jewelry could talk!”,   “I love how stylish it is for something 100 years old”.  For me, these interactions never get old. Not only does the jewelry complete my ensemble aesthetically but it gives my outfit a greater purpose. An opportunity to share my beautiful and unique treasures and their history with friends old and new.

The popularity of estate, antique and vintage inspired jewelry is not new.  What attracts people is the uniqueness and story of the piece. Also, estate jewelry is by nature eco friendly and sustainable, incorporating the principals of reduce, reuse and recycle.  Fine quality and craftsmanship never goes out of style and is always a sound investment. Fashion and design draws on history and principals of the past.  In many cases, vintage inspired jewelry is a better option due to affordability or a certain look one has in mind.  Vogue has announced this years Met Gala dress code is “Gilded Glamour”.  Possibly inspired by Julian Fellowes HBO drama, The Gilded Age, where viewers can see all the extravagant drama in high society New York during the 1880s.  

Our family has been curating fine quality estate pieces and vintage inspired jewelry for more than thirty five years so I am often asked how to go about finding that special piece. Here’s what to look for: 

Provenance: Provenance is the documentation of historical items.  It can tell a story of when the item was manufactured, who owned them or if worn by a historic figure or celebrity.  Photographs, receipts, written accounts and even word of mouth can all be considered provenance and can elevate the value of the piece. 

Hallmark:  Hallmarks, trademarks, stampings in obvious or not so obvious places contribute to provenance.   A hallmark is stamped to identify the items purity on gold, silver or platinum pieces. Different countries sometimes use different symbols.  An example is a marking for 14 karat gold is 585 and 18 karat gold is 750 (because 14 karat gold is 58.5% pure and 18 karat gold is 75% pure).  A maker’s mark or trademark is the symbol or name of the designer, manufacturer or representative.  This provides proof that the jewelry was made by a certain manufacturer or designer and is therefore considered “signed”.    Many older pieces of jewelry made in the US were stamped with European marks.  There can be many types of stamps or no stamps at all.  Many times a stamp is polished off for sizing or repair purposes.  Either way it is best to have a qualified jewelry expert verify.

Does it Speak to Me:  Trust your instincts and have confidence in your style.  Do you like it because it simply catches your eye or does it symbolize something special to you?  Do you want to imagine yourself as the prestigious person who wore it in another time? As jewelry rolls across our desks we don’t get technical right away.   Our experienced curating team considers its attractiveness, a skill nourished by exposure to beautiful things current and historic and an eye for design.   Wearability also comes into play, is the bangle so heavy you can’t lift your cell phone to your ear?  Maybe the piece come with an outstanding provenance and you find the history fascinating. 

Authenticity and Quality:  Only a trained jewelry professional will be able to authenticate your piece using their experience and current industry tools.  There are some things you can look for on your own.  Look to see if the piece is generally well made.  If the shank of a ring is as thin as dental floss, you probably don’t want it. How heavy are the prongs holding the gemstones? Are there any loose stones?  

Vintage Inspired: Well made vintage inspired jewelry continues to be popular.  We work with tradespeople who take a cue from the past, crafting beautiful handmade pieces using todays technology and yesterdays craftsmanship.  Often you can find exactly what you are looking for with a variety of options for size, color and price. 

Style Periods:  It is always interesting to know which style periods your jewelry came from.  World events and pop culture greatly influence fashion, design and architecture.  Below is a brief summary of style periods which may or may not influence how you feel about a piece of jewelry.

     Georgian: The Georgian period is named after the English King Georges I through IV between 1714 and 1837.  A time of excess and high society indulgence. Most of the Georgian jewelry available today is from the early 1800s. It was painstakingly hand made by skilled artisans so gemstones and metal are a bit rough on the edges.  Styles were dramatic and unique using techniques like repousse, the hammering of metal into ornate designs.  Also cannetille, a method of working with gold to make it look woven.  Floral and scroll motifs were typical.  Commonly used gemstones include semi-precious colored stones, like garnets, and early faceted rose-cut and table-cut diamonds. Gold was usually 18 karat and higher. 

     Victorian: From 1837 through 1901 and named for Queen Victoria, Victorian Jewels are all about sentimentality and symbolism.  The Victorian period incorporates varied and eclectic design motifs.  You will see flowers, birds, snakes, hearts and crescents, to name a few.  Victorian jewelry incorporate as many gemstones as possible for the time.  Everything from agate, turquoise, seed pearls and coral and as extravagant as diamond show pieces. They are mostly yellow gold and are often topped with silver to accentuate the diamonds.

     Art Nouveau: The Art Nouveau period was approximately 1895 through 1915.  Once you know the style it is easy to recognize.  Female forms: dancers, nymphs and mermaids were often combined with curvy, nature inspired designs like flowers, water lilies, dragonflies, and the familiar whiplash line motif. Gemstones and diamonds were used modestly as an accent in Art Nouveau jewelry.  Shimmering colors were applied with fired enamels and plique à jour, translucent enamel that reminds one of stained glass windows. 

     Edwardian: Named after King Edward (1901-1910), Edwardian jewels are lacy, feminine and romantic.   Intricately detailed pieces often in platinum.  Delicate craftsmanship  gives a light and airy look to an open and curvaceous design.  Diamond studded bows and garlands frequently accent center diamonds, pastel colored gemstones, and natural pearls.  

     Art Deco: The Chrysler and Empire State  Buildings are premium examples of Art Deco design.   Beginning  with the roaring twenties and lasting  through the depression years of the 1930s, modern, bold, streamlined and geometric shapes made for striking and sophisticated jewelry.  Platinum showcased white diamonds, often accented with black onyx or sapphire.  Elongated dinner rings along with ruby, emerald, sapphire and diamond cocktail rings were all the rage.  Ladies would stack lavish bracelets on both wrists while wearing double clip brooches and extra long necklaces.     

     Retro: The retro era was from approximately 1939-1950.  This jewelry is highly recognizable by its bolder and stronger take on Art Deco design.  While platinum was still used, it was needed for World War II so there was a shift to rose and rosy-yellow gold. This is the time of Rita Hayworth, Joan Crawford, Greta Garbo, and Marlena Dietrich and the glamour of Golden Age Hollywood.  Large gemstones, precious and semi-precious in whimsical, asymmetrical settings.    

     Mid-Century:   Mid Century design was from approximately 1950-1965.  This was a return to prosperity, platinum and diamonds.  There was a demand for luxury, feminine jewelry.  Curves, free form, portraials of animals, flowers, vines and branches from Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and Van Cleef and Arpels. Think Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe. 

     The Sixties:  Sixties vintage jewelry has suddenly become groovy again.  You can recognize it by its asymmetrical design, abstract florals and vibrant color.  Space motifs and experimentation with uncut stones and textured materials were common in an era of rebellion.